DIY kit assembly

Built a scanner? Started to build a scanner? Record your progress here. Doesn't need to be a whole scanner - triggers and other parts are fine. Commercial scanners are fine too.

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daniel_reetz
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by daniel_reetz »

Iiinteresting. I don't want to hijack this thread, but I had similar issues when cutting some scanners up in Seattle/Portland recently. Need to spec this part of the drawing more carefully.
thinkJason
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by thinkJason »

Somebody remind me to repost everything that got lost! Oh man!

Hey, I just wanted to throw a heads up out there. I've been working with the guy at the framing shop down the block from me, and he mentioned that he throws out scraps of museum glass (anti-glare/reflection/etc) all the time. He's interested in my scanner build, and is going to see if he comes across a few panes of scrap museum glass that are properly sized in the next week or so and throw 'em my way. I'll test them out in my build and let ya'll know how well they kill reflections.

Also, he said that 11x14" panes of museum glass would run something like $40, though he wouldn't mind selling scraps for way cheaper since he otherwise throws 'em out. If it comes up as being beneficial to the scan quality, I might be able to work out a cheap source for everyone here!
goyoba
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by goyoba »

More on Bearings:
goyoba wrote:I got mine from a $2 pair of roller-blades from Deseret Industries (a thrift store like Savers or Goodwill). Now I have all my 608zz bearings and they are ABEC-5 instead of ABEC-1 . . . probably doesn't make a difference, but hey, 16 bearings for $2 isn't bad. Just take your phillips and your allen wrench set with you when you go. 4 wheels on each skate = 8 bearings x 2 skates = 16 bearings. (I already had four from some extra wheels that came with a scooter = 20 bearings.)
Instead of double bearings for each piece in each joint (4 bearings per joint), I just used my roller-blade adaption. Here's my set up:

Disassembled wheel:
Image
Some wheels do not have removable plastic fittings, so bring an allen wrench to the thrift store to check before you buy.


What your joint looks like:
Image
Image


Advantages:

1) don't have to flip the pieces to drill a second bearing hole
2) don't have to buy bolts
2a) actually, I only care because I don't have to WAIT for the bolts to arrive :)
3) use 2 bearings per joint instead of 4
4) bearings are a little bit cheaper (these ones were $3 for 16 bearings)
Image

Disadvantages:

1) I'm worried the torque of the repetitive motions will eventually wear down the hardware (would not happen nearly as quickly with 4 bearings per joint)
2) hand-me-down roller blade bearings are dirty
3) with 3/4 inch stuff, I had to use 2 spacer brackets (parts from 2 wheels) for 1 joint. I'm working on getting my design down to 5/8ths baltic birch to save on material cost, and then this set up will be perfect: 1 wheel per joint.
4) have to include extra washers to space the bearings (still be required with 5/8ths stuff)
Last edited by goyoba on 24 Feb 2012, 20:20, edited 1 time in total.
goyoba
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by goyoba »

thinkJason wrote:11x14" panes
Is there a reason you chose 3/32 thickness? Is that just what was available at Home Depot? I'll be interested in the museum glass.

I was given 1/4 thick glass panes from a similar throw away pile. It felt stronger than the 1/8th inch stuff. Think the thicker pane will reduce image quality?
thinkJason
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by thinkJason »

goyoba wrote:Is there a reason you chose 3/32 thickness? Is that just what was available at Home Depot? I'll be interested in the museum glass.

I was given 1/4 thick glass panes from a similar throw away pile. It felt stronger than the 1/8th inch stuff. Think the thicker pane will reduce image quality?
That's what was at home depot. They're thin, but they don't feel fragile. I'm not sure about the light transmission, but I can't imagine there's much of an impact, if any measurable at all.
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by rob »

Yes, 3/32" is the size you get at Home Depot. In the hardware document, I think I specified anything up to about 1/4". Past 1/4", you may need to get bigger L-brackets. Also, you won't be able to get as deep into the spine of the book.

My cats broke my 3/32" glass :( I wish we had an easily-available source for Gorilla Glass.
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by daniel_reetz »

I think 1/4" is too thick for optical reasons and no one should use it.
M@rtijn
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by M@rtijn »

Would glass from a old scanner or copier be an option although it will probably exceed the 1/4 thickness?
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by daniel_reetz »

You can scan with glass that thick - lots of people here do it - but it has two problems. One, the thickness of the glass prevents you from getting deep into the gutter of some books. Two, all glass has a slight double reflection and the thicker the glass, the worse this effect can be. Again, people here do it successfully and are happy with the results, but personally I do not recommend it.
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Re: DIY kit assembly

Post by rob »

goyoba wrote:More on Bearings:

Instead of double bearings for each piece in each joint (4 bearings per joint), I just used my roller-blade adaption.
I'm *very* interested in this. I'm really unhappy with having to flip the pieces for drilling, and it seems to be an error-prone process. Can you post a picture of what your final joint looks like, installed?
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
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