Nice thrift shopping on the bearings! I wouldn't have even thought of this.goyoba wrote:I see Rob sent you some bearings. Just adding an idea for those who don't have bearings:
I got mine from a $2 pair of roller-blades from Deseret Industries (a thrift store like Savers or Goodwill). Now I have all my 608zz bearings and they are ABEC-5 instead of ABEC-1 . . . probably doesn't make a difference, but hey, 16 bearings for $2 isn't bad. Just take your phillips and your allen wrench set with you when you go. 4 wheels on each skate = 8 bearings x 2 skates = 16 bearings. (I already had four from some extra wheels that came with a scooter = 20 bearings.)
Tips for cleaning from youtube:
-don't worry about what's underneath the metal bracket because removing the bracket will likely dent the metal. Just wipe off with a paper towel or a rag You can shake them in rubbing alcohol, acetone, gas, nail remover, cologne, lemon juice, or break cleaner to clean. Lot's of people say don't use WD-40.
-. . . if you have to remove the bracket (if it seems like hair is stuck inside or something), use a sharp knife or razor on the metal bracket or use a small needle to poke through from the opposite side.
-if you don't want to buy special lube from some skateboard shop, motor oil (unused) or other thick grease seems to be the recommended diy oil (more than olive or canola oil).
DIY kit assembly
Moderator: peterZ
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Re: DIY kit assembly
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Re: DIY kit assembly
Note for those keeping track: two cans of paint isn't enough. I'm almost done painting, but I need to pick up a third can to finish.
Edit: I have been double-coating everything to keep it consistent.
Edit: I have been double-coating everything to keep it consistent.
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Re: DIY kit assembly
The inner diameter of the bearings in these won't accomodate the bolts. Smaller bolt or different pullies are required for assembly.thinkJason wrote:Here's the pullies, at a whopping $4.94 from Home Depot:
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Re: DIY kit assembly
Managed to get the build 90% test fit.
First, assemble the frame: (4x wood screws)
It helps to pre-screw the bolts, as the milled holes are tight (4x 2" bolts, 2x 2.5" bolts, 10x washers, 6x nuts):
Use a 2.5" long bolt on the back side to attach the bungee to:
Inside view:
So far:
Next step: insert bearings into the swing arms (16x bearings, both sides) and latch for bungee (2x 2" bolt, 2x washer, 2x nut):
Note: I was able to easily insert the bearings into one side of each piece, but was unable to insert bearings into the other side. I'll need to bore out each hole by a minuscule amount. No amount of hammering would allow the bearings to go in. These holes should be increased by maybe 1-2mm in the CNC plans.
Attach swing arms to frame (4x 2" bolt, 8x washer, 4x nut):
Note: I did not use a washer on the outside fittings as the washers I have are as large as the bearings and negate their flexibility. When tightening, allow some wiggle room unless your bearings are properly sized. I'll probably be replacing the washers with different sizes.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled these holes before I painted (attaching the swing arm to the front lift handle):
Note: Now is an opportune time to attach the wood for the bike handle. Once the platen frame is on, it's next to impossible to fit a screwdriver in a position to attach it. I did not do this step, and will reconsider once I tear down and rebuild with more paint, a few extra parts, and some daylight.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled these holes also. Note that the wood has split; I drilled slightly thicker than the milled holes in the frame to account for threading, but it was not enough. This is to attach the platen frame to the bottom frame (4x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, missing 4x washers):
And here's where we're at:
Note that the attachment for the bike handle is not on the lift arm. See note above.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled the four holes to attach the light frame to the platen frame before I painted (4x wood screws):
Note that I ran out of paint and only got one side done. This does show up in the reflection, and must be remedied.
This is the point where I attached the cradle frame to the unit (4x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, 4x washers, 10x wood screws, 4x bearings)
Note: 6x wood screws attach the cradle together, 3 per side. 4x wood screws attach the bearings to the sliding cradle. The bolts attach the lift arms to the cradle, and once again I didn't use a washer on the outside due to size. That will be remedied with another trip to the hardware store. See also the incomplete paint job.
Next up: throw in the lights and the glass(2x 5.5" shrouds, 2x 75w halogens, 2x 11X13.75" panes of glas):
Note: I held the glass in place with the longest bungee in the assortment as a temporary measure. I'll be experimenting further. The bungees are functional, but prevent the cradle from lifting all the way up to the platen to flatten the pages. Also, I think the glass is going to slice them in half.
Finally, attach bungees for tension (2x 18" bungee cords, 2x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, missing 4x washers):
Note: this kit is still incomplete. I need the bike parts to assemble the trigger mechanism, two bolts of the right size to attach the cameras, some smaller diameter washers, two pullies, and some paint. I'll be updating as I go!
First, assemble the frame: (4x wood screws)
It helps to pre-screw the bolts, as the milled holes are tight (4x 2" bolts, 2x 2.5" bolts, 10x washers, 6x nuts):
Use a 2.5" long bolt on the back side to attach the bungee to:
Inside view:
So far:
Next step: insert bearings into the swing arms (16x bearings, both sides) and latch for bungee (2x 2" bolt, 2x washer, 2x nut):
Note: I was able to easily insert the bearings into one side of each piece, but was unable to insert bearings into the other side. I'll need to bore out each hole by a minuscule amount. No amount of hammering would allow the bearings to go in. These holes should be increased by maybe 1-2mm in the CNC plans.
Attach swing arms to frame (4x 2" bolt, 8x washer, 4x nut):
Note: I did not use a washer on the outside fittings as the washers I have are as large as the bearings and negate their flexibility. When tightening, allow some wiggle room unless your bearings are properly sized. I'll probably be replacing the washers with different sizes.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled these holes before I painted (attaching the swing arm to the front lift handle):
Note: Now is an opportune time to attach the wood for the bike handle. Once the platen frame is on, it's next to impossible to fit a screwdriver in a position to attach it. I did not do this step, and will reconsider once I tear down and rebuild with more paint, a few extra parts, and some daylight.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled these holes also. Note that the wood has split; I drilled slightly thicker than the milled holes in the frame to account for threading, but it was not enough. This is to attach the platen frame to the bottom frame (4x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, missing 4x washers):
And here's where we're at:
Note that the attachment for the bike handle is not on the lift arm. See note above.
If I could go back in time, I would have drilled the four holes to attach the light frame to the platen frame before I painted (4x wood screws):
Note that I ran out of paint and only got one side done. This does show up in the reflection, and must be remedied.
This is the point where I attached the cradle frame to the unit (4x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, 4x washers, 10x wood screws, 4x bearings)
Note: 6x wood screws attach the cradle together, 3 per side. 4x wood screws attach the bearings to the sliding cradle. The bolts attach the lift arms to the cradle, and once again I didn't use a washer on the outside due to size. That will be remedied with another trip to the hardware store. See also the incomplete paint job.
Next up: throw in the lights and the glass(2x 5.5" shrouds, 2x 75w halogens, 2x 11X13.75" panes of glas):
Note: I held the glass in place with the longest bungee in the assortment as a temporary measure. I'll be experimenting further. The bungees are functional, but prevent the cradle from lifting all the way up to the platen to flatten the pages. Also, I think the glass is going to slice them in half.
Finally, attach bungees for tension (2x 18" bungee cords, 2x 2" bolts, 4x nuts, missing 4x washers):
Note: this kit is still incomplete. I need the bike parts to assemble the trigger mechanism, two bolts of the right size to attach the cameras, some smaller diameter washers, two pullies, and some paint. I'll be updating as I go!
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Re: DIY kit assembly
A couple of test shots as-is (Canon Powershot A630, fluorescent white balance):
1: RC Concepcion's The HDR Book (photography)
(full size, 8MP, 2.9MB)
2: Michael Foucault's "History of Madness"
(full size, 8MP, 1.9MB)
The camera isn't centered spot-on, yet.
1: RC Concepcion's The HDR Book (photography)
(full size, 8MP, 2.9MB)
2: Michael Foucault's "History of Madness"
(full size, 8MP, 1.9MB)
The camera isn't centered spot-on, yet.
Re: DIY kit assembly
I put my scanner together to the exact same point yesterday. I'm wondering if you've figured out what sort of screw to use for your cameras? Is it a bolt/screw available from home depot or is the threading different such that we have to order online or something?
Your build looks very very nice. The pieces on my build did not fit together - the dogbones were about 1/8" too tight such that I had to do some work with a chisel. However, it's all together now and fits so tightly that many of the screws aren't really necessary.
Edit: answered my own question. You need a 1/4" 20 bolt for mounting cameras.
Edit 2: I bought a set of assorted felt pads from Home Depot. I am using four small round felt pads as shims to hold each piece of glass in place. Seems to work perfectly!
Your build looks very very nice. The pieces on my build did not fit together - the dogbones were about 1/8" too tight such that I had to do some work with a chisel. However, it's all together now and fits so tightly that many of the screws aren't really necessary.
Edit: answered my own question. You need a 1/4" 20 bolt for mounting cameras.
Edit 2: I bought a set of assorted felt pads from Home Depot. I am using four small round felt pads as shims to hold each piece of glass in place. Seems to work perfectly!
- daniel_reetz
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Re: DIY kit assembly
aeturnus would you (if you haven't already) post a pic of the finish issues you had? I'm working on reprogramming all the artwork today and want to solve any problems like that cleanly.
Re: DIY kit assembly
I wouldn't mind, but there's not much to see since I've already chiselled the joints down - what exactly would be helpful for you to see?daniel_reetz wrote:aeturnus would you (if you haven't already) post a pic of the finish issues you had? I'm working on reprogramming all the artwork today and want to solve any problems like that cleanly.
It's odd that others haven't had this same issue. I wonder if it has something to do with the particular rig/bit the shop used to cut my parts.
- daniel_reetz
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Re: DIY kit assembly
It's possible that they made programming mistakes because of the particular way parts are drawn, or because they, or we made a mistake. Seeing them might give me a clue as to what's going on. One thing is clear: Rob's stuff is perfect, but so far my experience with other shops hasn't been as good. I think we can engineer those mistakes out if we can only see them.aeturneus wrote:I wouldn't mind, but there's not much to see since I've already chiselled the joints down - what exactly would be helpful for you to see?daniel_reetz wrote:aeturnus would you (if you haven't already) post a pic of the finish issues you had? I'm working on reprogramming all the artwork today and want to solve any problems like that cleanly.
It's odd that others haven't had this same issue. I wonder if it has something to do with the particular rig/bit the shop used to cut my parts.
Re: DIY kit assembly
Typical fit issues, resolved with a brutalist approach.
It works though - here's the whole setup:
Left to do: spray paint all the bright steel bolts and raw wood exposed by chisel in order to get rid of a couple of annoying reflections.
It works though - here's the whole setup:
Left to do: spray paint all the bright steel bolts and raw wood exposed by chisel in order to get rid of a couple of annoying reflections.