Adjustable Camera Plank
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- jtalle
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Adjustable Camera Plank
I've been trying to work out how to make the camera planks adjustable. I need the camera to be able to swing the focus up to the center of the glass and down to about 2" from the point of the V.
This will allow me to center the camera on the page and be able to zoom evenly so I can get a maximum size - and resolution.
Obviously, a bolt can go at each end of the plank. What I'd like is ideas for locking the plank in place while able to unlock it easily and adjust the position and relock it.
Here's a rough drawing of what I need.
Any ideas how to design the mechanism to secure the planks? I have some rough ideas - even a couple that would require making the parts at Shapeways - but I don't want to say anything to stifle ideas.
This will allow me to center the camera on the page and be able to zoom evenly so I can get a maximum size - and resolution.
Obviously, a bolt can go at each end of the plank. What I'd like is ideas for locking the plank in place while able to unlock it easily and adjust the position and relock it.
Here's a rough drawing of what I need.
Any ideas how to design the mechanism to secure the planks? I have some rough ideas - even a couple that would require making the parts at Shapeways - but I don't want to say anything to stifle ideas.
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- jtalle
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
Looking at it, I think I swapped the values - the idea is that I can adjust the pitch of the lens and lock it into place without cannibalizing a tripod head.
- daniel_reetz
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
Let's say you had a 1" forstner bit.
If you trimmed/shortened the existing tab on the camera mounting plate to a 1" wide tab, it would fit in the circular hole. Simple, ugly pivot.
Then, you could drill another hole. One as a stop where the camera plate needs to rotate, and one at its normal position. By putting a bolt into either hole you could stop the plate at the right angle.
If you trimmed/shortened the existing tab on the camera mounting plate to a 1" wide tab, it would fit in the circular hole. Simple, ugly pivot.
Then, you could drill another hole. One as a stop where the camera plate needs to rotate, and one at its normal position. By putting a bolt into either hole you could stop the plate at the right angle.
- jtalle
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
That's a good start, but I described it incorrectly - I need the pivot over the range, not just two different positions. How much will depend on the book being scanned.
The camera lens needs to be aligned on the book's center point. That way, I can fill the entire image with the camera and only minimal cropping will be needed. Also, the resolution will improve greatly.
I'll make another drawing soon.
The camera lens needs to be aligned on the book's center point. That way, I can fill the entire image with the camera and only minimal cropping will be needed. Also, the resolution will improve greatly.
I'll make another drawing soon.
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
How about a hinge arrangement like this?
Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
I wouldn't think you'd want to tilt the camera as that would induce keystoning in your images.
Instead, you need to be able to raise and lower the camera body perpindicular with respect to the "plank" surface.
This type of adjustment can be done with shims (I use 1/4" MDF) and a longer mounting bolt for the camera body. BTW, my scanner has that "plank" positioned so that without any shims, it will be at a position where the camera is pointing at the center of a small paperback book. I then can add shims to move the focal point higher on the platen for the larger page sizes.
Instead, you need to be able to raise and lower the camera body perpindicular with respect to the "plank" surface.
This type of adjustment can be done with shims (I use 1/4" MDF) and a longer mounting bolt for the camera body. BTW, my scanner has that "plank" positioned so that without any shims, it will be at a position where the camera is pointing at the center of a small paperback book. I then can add shims to move the focal point higher on the platen for the larger page sizes.
- jtalle
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
I like that - it makes sense. I'm not certain the spring is necessary, so long as the adjustment bolt is stable.
I want to redraw this in scale and see what I can do with it. I'll also draw out what I'm currently doing, which is not desireable.
I want to redraw this in scale and see what I can do with it. I'll also draw out what I'm currently doing, which is not desireable.
- jtalle
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
What I think I need is a method to duplicate a tripod camera mount on the frame.
The plank would be lower and the locking mechanisms wouldn't need to rotate on the bearing. Pehaps only pitch control and the camera screw is necessary. A thin hasp might do it, given some hollowing out where the current mounting screw hole is located.
The plank would be lower and the locking mechanisms wouldn't need to rotate on the bearing. Pehaps only pitch control and the camera screw is necessary. A thin hasp might do it, given some hollowing out where the current mounting screw hole is located.
Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
Check out 4-way macro focusing rail. Got em on Ebay too. http://us.dinodirect.com/Aluminium-Allo ... LP-01.html
- jtalle
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Re: Adjustable Camera Plank
I like the macro focusing rail, but that still requires the mount point.
What I've found is a tripod head on eBay, for a pittance.
I'm going to have to do some adjusting so that the actuator will match the camera buttons. But this is mere details, now, rather than a delemma. This is nice because I don't have to disassemble the camera from the mount to change the memory card. It even uses the same bolt I was using to mount the camera.
I'm thinking perhaps it's time to start exploring USB triggering again. Alternately, coming up with a method to move the trigger from the plank to the camera, somehow.
Here's a capture of the eBay auction where I bought the camera heads for about $6 each from China
What I've found is a tripod head on eBay, for a pittance.
I'm going to have to do some adjusting so that the actuator will match the camera buttons. But this is mere details, now, rather than a delemma. This is nice because I don't have to disassemble the camera from the mount to change the memory card. It even uses the same bolt I was using to mount the camera.
I'm thinking perhaps it's time to start exploring USB triggering again. Alternately, coming up with a method to move the trigger from the plank to the camera, somehow.
Here's a capture of the eBay auction where I bought the camera heads for about $6 each from China