Rob's inverted platen build

Built a scanner? Started to build a scanner? Record your progress here. Doesn't need to be a whole scanner - triggers and other parts are fine. Commercial scanners are fine too.

Moderator: peterZ

User avatar
jck57
Posts: 376
Joined: 23 Nov 2009, 15:21

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by jck57 »

rob wrote: Cutting a square hole in plywood can be done in several ways, according to Lewis at NextFab. The lowest-tech way is to drill holes at all four corners, then insert a jigsaw and cut your way around. The next step up is to cut out a template from MDF or plywood, and then use a router to route your way around the hole. This is also hellishly noisy. I really hate routers. The highest-tech way is to use a laser cutter, which I did at NextFab.
Carpenters use circular saws to cut out windows.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4417355_cutti ... r-saw.html
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Not a technique I would try. Granted, if you're expert, you can do it, but if you've only picked up a circular saw a few times... it can go very wrong very quickly!
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
spamsickle
Posts: 596
Joined: 06 Jun 2009, 23:57

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by spamsickle »

rob wrote:I'll have to get some acrylic and practice bending it under heat.
My current plan is to tape the acrylic to a table top with the "bend line" on the straight edge of the table. I'll do a bit of math, and have a platform built of books to the height I want the bending side to stop. Run the heat gun along the bend line to soften it, then bend to the proper angle. I'm still going with something a lot more obtuse than 90 degrees; I guess a 90-degree angle would make the platform unnecessary. My main concern is that the heat-softened "bend line" will be too wide, and I'll get an S-bend rather than a V-bend. If I was bending up rather than down, that wouldn't be a concern, but I can't think of a convenient way to suspend my stop plane.

Let me know if you try it first, or have any ideas. Maybe I should start a "heat bending" thread...
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Oh, my thought was to suspend the acrylic in the middle from a long thin tube, and then heat the top, allowing it to flop down. If the plan works, the acrylic should bend itself, and stop when the ends hit the table.
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Parts needed for this step:
  • Four 4" angle brackets, found in the door hardware section at my Home Depot
  • Four 1 1/2" long 1/4" hex bolts
  • Four 1/4" nuts
  • Sacrificial piece of wood, at least as long as your scanner is wide
  • Optionally, four 1/4" washers
Tools needed for this step:
  • 1/4" spade bit
  • Small square
  • Drill
  • Ruler
  • Three clamps
  • Pen or pencil
  • Optionally, some sandpaper
Next step is the mount for the camera. There are many camera mounts: the original "Six Degrees of Awesome" design from Instructables (formalized here). Or, use some old gooseneck lamps and mount your cameras on those (article here for Make Magazine subscribers, but you can just bodge one together). Or any of the numerous other solutions that just involve bolting this thing to that other thing.

My solution involves going to Home Depot (or your local hardware megastore equivalent) and getting some 4" angle brackets (or your local metric equivalent). Get at least four. I'll mount one on each side underneath the top inside the apron to provide a convenient attachment point.

First, take one of the brackets and measure the distance from the side to the middle of the hole. Then add a little more. Set up a ruler so that you can scribe a line along the inside of the apron at this distance.
IMG_20110416_113548.jpg
IMG_20110416_113548.jpg (144.23 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Mark out the locations of the legs so that you can avoid them. In retrospect, I would probably have scribed the line further in, to provide more room. We learn by making mistakes. Oh well.
IMG_20110416_113558.jpg
IMG_20110416_113558.jpg (127.19 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
IMG_20110416_113628.jpg
IMG_20110416_113628.jpg (142.63 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
IMG_20110416_113842.jpg
IMG_20110416_113842.jpg (113.06 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Next, put your angle bracket almost right up against the leg, and mark the center of each hole. Move it over about halfway, and mark the holes again. Now march your way across the top, marking the centers. In this way, you will get holes exactly spaced for your bracket.
IMG_20110416_113943.jpg
IMG_20110416_113943.jpg (114.6 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Now, drill the holes. Use a 1/4" bit, which matches the 1/4" bolts you'll use (or whatever your metric equivalent is). Preferably a spade bit because those are longer, and you'll need the length due to the apron being in the way. Also, clamp some wood against the top. The drill will splinter the plywood at the exit point, but clamping some sacrificial wood there will help drastically reduce the splintering. Also, use the small square as before to help make your drill bit perpendicular.
IMG_20110416_114835.jpg
IMG_20110416_114835.jpg (141.97 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Feets, don't fail me now!
Feets, don't fail me now!
IMG_20110416_115416.jpg (116.14 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Even with the sacrificial piece of wood, I had to sand the top a little to remove the smaller wood splinters.
IMG_20110416_115655.jpg
IMG_20110416_115655.jpg (111.66 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Use 1 1/2" long 1/4" bolts, with optional washers. See? The bracket fits. Why? SCIENCE!
IMG_20110416_120034.jpg
IMG_20110416_120034.jpg (118.15 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Parts needed for this step:
  • Two 1/4" wingnuts
  • Two 1/4" thumbscrews, 1" to 1 1/2" long. You can probably substitute hex bolts here.
  • Two nylon standoffs with 1/4" or slightly larger inner diameter, 1/2" long. Any outside diameter is fine.
  • Two 1/4" split washers
  • Two 1/4" wingscrews, 1/2" long (note: these fit into your camera, so make sure you get the right size)
  • The other angle brackets you didn't use from the last step
Tools needed for this step:
  • Optionally, two pliers
This step involves mounting the other brackets and your cameras so you can admire your handiwork. Attach the wingnuts, thumbscrews, split washers, and nylon standoffs as depicted. You can orient the angle brackets any way you wish. The reason for the split washers is that they provide a force pushing all the parts together. The nylon standoff allows you to rotate the parts even when everything is tightened together. This means you can adjust the thing to the right angle, and not worry about it moving.

Use the pliers on the thumbscrew and wingnuts to loosen, if you can't loosen them with your fingers.
IMG_20110416_125232.jpg
IMG_20110416_125232.jpg (124.21 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
Using the wingscrews to mount your cameras to the angle brackets.
IMG_20110416_125240.jpg
IMG_20110416_125240.jpg (135.62 KiB) Viewed 13188 times
At this point, if you have CHDK-compatible cameras, you can just hook up the cables and go scan some paperbacks. However, I'll be building a version of kusnick's remote trigger using bicycle brake cable (see this thread). Also, I'll be trying to build Spam's bent acrylic platen. So watch the space below for more!
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Parts you will need for this step:
  • Sheet of 1/4" clear transparent acrylic, 18 3/4" x 15" or other size for your custom scanner; see text below.
Tools you will need for this step:
  • Two adjustable-angle clamps (such as this Rockler Clamp-it Set)
  • Alternative to the above, two wooden triangles with one angle being 120 degrees
  • Two identical pieces of 3/4" plywood, 18" x 15"
  • One strip of 3/4" plywood, 18" x 2"
  • Two wood screws, at least 1 1/2" long
  • Screwdriver
  • Non-permanent marker
  • Square
  • Acrylic strip-heater at least 24" long (such as this Craftics heater)
Here's how to bend an acrylic sheet to make a Spamsickle-type bent acrylic platen. First, size your acrylic sheet correctly for a 120-degree bend. If your opening is W inches wide by H inches high, your acrylic sheet should be 1.15 W - 0.56 by H. Why? SCIENCE!
IMG_20110416_130302.jpg
IMG_20110416_130302.jpg (75.92 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
Next, take your plywood sheets and your clamps, set your clamps to 120 degrees, and make a little tent:
IMG_20110416_164248.jpg
IMG_20110416_164248.jpg (126.66 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
Here I'm using a different kind of adjustable angle clamp, which I couldn't find online. Anyway, this tent will be your form for the acrylic. Next, take your acrylic, and place two small dots using the marker on either side of the acrylic, halfway along its long side. This is where you're going to bend the acrylic, so the dots serve as alignment markers.

Balance the acrylic on the form so that your center dots are centered along the seam, and use the square to make sure it is parallel to the form's sides. Now carefully tilt the acrylic over so that it ends up flat on one side, sticking up in the air on the other. Draw a line where the acrylic ends, and screw your small 2" strip to the form:
IMG_20110416_171523.jpg
IMG_20110416_171523.jpg (143.16 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
The idea is that once your acrylic is heated up, you can just set the acrylic against the strip, and bend at the right place to the right angle.

Now lay out your strip heater. Professional acrylic strip heaters are big long solid things that you can either lay your acrylic on top of, or lay on top of the acrylic. The cheaper wire heaters are designed to sit on top of the acrylic. Here is the important part: the side of the acrylic closer to the heater is the WARM side, and other side is the COOL side. Remember this.

Lay out the acrylic and the strip heater so that you are heating along the line connecting your marked alignment dots. Wiggle the acrylic gently every so often to see how pliable it gets. You don't want it to be too hard. Soft is good. The softer the better. Chances are the cheap wire heater will not heat the acrylic up so much as to get it really soft.

In any case, when you've determined that you can bend the acrylic easily, take the acrylic and lay it down on the form, WARM SIDE UP. That is, if your heater was on top of the acrylic, just pick the acrylic up and put it down on the form the same way. If your heater was under the acrylic, pick the acrylic up, flip it over, and set it down on the form. The reason for this is that the outside bend of the acrylic requires more stretchy material, and hence that side needs to be warmer. If you mess up and do it the other way around, your bend will still work, but you'll end up with a bunching of material on the inside, which will distort your book in all the wrong ways.
IMG_20110416_174940 copy.jpg
IMG_20110416_174940 copy.jpg (71.68 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
IMG_20110416_174946 copy.jpg
IMG_20110416_174946 copy.jpg (60.34 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
Bend it gently.
IMG_20110417_105906.jpg
IMG_20110417_105906.jpg (86.78 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
Hold it down while it cools. If you bent it the right way, the acrylic should not spring back when you let go. Anyway, once it is cool to the touch, take it off the form, and fit it in your scanner. You may have to shim the sides a small bit.
IMG_20110417_105832.jpg
IMG_20110417_105832.jpg (79.98 KiB) Viewed 13157 times
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Parts you will need for this step:
  • Eight 1 1/2" long 1/4" hex bolts
  • Eight 1/4" nuts
  • Two strips of 3/4" plywood, 3" x 20-1/2"
  • Sacrificial piece of wood, at least 20-1/2" long
Tools you will need for this step:
  • Tape measure
  • 1/4" spade bit
  • Small square
  • Drill
  • Pen or pencil
  • Three clamps
  • Optionally, a level
  • Flat black spray paint
In this step, we're going to add a different place for mounting the camera. The problem that I found with mounting cameras near the "roof" is that the angle of the camera to the platen is so far off perpendicular that it adds significant keystoning to the image, and that's no good.

Here's the geometry:
camera-align.jpg
camera-align.jpg (84.15 KiB) Viewed 13004 times
You can use the tape measure to draw a kind of virtual line perpendicular to the platen, and from this you can see where you want your camera to end up. Mark that position on the legs.

The next step is to use the rest of the tools and parts to add cross-braces to the sides. Drill holes for the angle brackets just as in previous steps. Then clamp the result to the legs. You can use the level to make sure the cross brace is nice and straight. Drill two holes through each end. It doesn't matter where, as long as the holes aren't in a straight line. Bolt together.
lower-camera.jpg
lower-camera.jpg (95.08 KiB) Viewed 13004 times
You may have noticed that I spray-painted the angle bracket holder flat black. This is important, because with this style of scanner, everything that isn't black is going to reflect against the platen. Interestingly, the wood doesn't seem to add any reflections. It seems that only stuff within the volume of the scanner will reflect.

You will need to light the platen from the front, not from directly underneath as you would think based on the other kind of scanner. See where the lights are in the first picture? That's where the lights need to be. You might be able to eliminate some shadows by lighting also from the back, but I've found that the shadow isn't so bad, especially when the end result is going to be bilevel.

If you have cables running to the cameras and they are not black, put a black cloth under the scanner, and run the wires underneath that.

Next post will cover the results from this scanner!
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
rob
Posts: 773
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:50
E-book readers owned: iRex iLiad, Kindle 2
Number of books owned: 4000
Country: United States
Location: Maryland, United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by rob »

Getting the most out of your inverted-platen scanner

Things you will need:
  • ImageMagick
  • Some program that will let you pick out coordinates of points on your image. Photoshop does it, but I'm not sure what else does.
  • Scan Tailor or BookScanWizard
One of the advantages of an inverted-platen scanner is that the platen does not move relative to the camera. This means you can take all of your pictures, and as long as the camera doesn't change location or orientation, the same exact keystoning will happen to every image. Also, the spine of the book will be (approximately) in the same position in every image. This lets you do some very simple yet powerful image cleanup before turning Scan Tailor or BookScanWizard loose on your images.

Here's a sample image.
scan-1.jpg
(103.71 KiB) Downloaded 9799 times
The first step will be to rotate and dekeystone the image all at once. Select an image that has a full page of text. Determine the coordinates of the points at either end of the topmost and bottommost full line. Use the bottoms of the lines rather than the tops. Write down the coordinates. Making a little diagram helps.
scan-2.jpg
scan-2.jpg (111.06 KiB) Viewed 13003 times
While you're at it, calculate the long and short sides of your text block using the good ol' Pythagorean Theorem. My sample image has a long side of 1854 and a short side of 1199. The particular side you measure doesn't matter much. Also, take a ruler and measure one of the sides. Divide the number of pixels by the measured size, and you get the dpi of the image. Notice that my dpi ended up being 353, which is really not too bad!

Now, here's what you want to end up with:
scan-3a.jpg
So we have four source points and four destination points. Let's label the destination points UL, UR, LL, and LR (upper left, upper right, lower left, and lower right). Let's also label the source points ULs, URs, LLs, and LRs -- but ULs is not the upper left of the image but of the page. Thus, in the example above,

ULs = 2388, 500
URs = 2432, 1712
LLs = 536, 578
LRs = 582, 1776

The question is, what should UL, UR, LL, and LR be? First, let's set UL = LLs. Why? Because this is the source point with the lowest x and y coordinates. Note that if your image is of the opposite page, you will probably end up setting UL = URs.

UL = 536, 578

Now it is just a matter of adding the short side pixel distance to x:

UR = 1735, 578

And then adding the long side pixel distance to y:

LL = 536, 2432
LR = 1735, 2432

Now we will use ImageMagick to map ULs -> UL, URs -> UR, LLs -> LL, and LRs -> LR. Do the one image you picked out first, as follows:

Code: Select all

convert input.jpg -virtual-pixel black +distort Perspective "ULs,UL URs,UR LLs,LL LRs,LR" +repage -density dpixdpi output.jpg
For my page, this command line looks like this:

Code: Select all

convert IMG_0006.JPG -virtual-pixel black +distort Perspective "2388,500,536,578 2432,1712,1735,578 536,578,536,2432 582,1776,1735,2432" +repage -density 353x353 output.jpg
And the result:
scan-4.jpg
scan-4.jpg (105.32 KiB) Viewed 13003 times
I've taken the liberty of drawing a line right around the middle of the platen bend. Measure this using the coordinate measuring program. Mine came out to (about) 528. Exactness isn't quite necessary, but you might err on the side of caution, because we're going to use ImageMagick again to get rid of the opposite partial page:

Code: Select all

convert output.jpg -crop +528+0 +repage output2.jpg
The above removes stuff on the left. To remove stuff on the right starting from X, use this instead:

Code: Select all

convert output.jpg -crop Xx0+0+0 +repage output2.jpg
scan-5.jpg
scan-5.jpg (119.53 KiB) Viewed 13003 times
There! Now we have a nice single page. This makes it easier for Scan Tailor and BSW to deal with.

Next, delete output.jpg and output2.jpg. Create a directory called, say, "fixed_images". Now, if you're on OSX or Linux, running the command on every image is easy:

Code: Select all

for i in *.JPG
do
convert $i -virtual-pixel black +distort Perspective "2388,500,536,578 2432,1712,1735,578 536,578,536,2432 582,1776,1735,2432" +repage -density 353x353 -crop +528+0 +repage fixed_images/$i
echo $i
done
In Windows, it's a little more weird (and this may not work, since I don't use Windows):

Code: Select all

FOR %%i IN (*.JPG) DO 'convert %%i -virtual-pixel black +distort Perspective "2388,500,536,578 2432,1712,1735,578 536,578,536,2432 582,1776,1735,2432" +repage -density 353x353 -crop +528+0 +repage fixed_images/%%i'
If it doesn't work, ask on the forum for anyone who can get it to work. Or download and install Cygwin, which will let you run Unix-type commands on Windows. Then you can use the OSX/Linux commands above.

Anyway, your resulting images are now in fixed_images. Do the whole thing again for the images from your other camera (measure, dekeystone, crop), and point ST or BSW at your resulting images. After ST or BSW finishes up with the images, they are nice and clean:
scan-6.jpg
scan-6.jpg (177.62 KiB) Viewed 13003 times
Anyway, that's it. Good luck, and have fun scanning!
The Singularity is Near. ~ http://halfbakedmaker.org ~ Follow me as I build the world's first all-mechanical steam-powered computer.
User avatar
daniel_reetz
Posts: 2812
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 13:56
E-book readers owned: Used to have a PRS-500
Number of books owned: 600
Country: United States
Contact:

Re: Rob's inverted platen build

Post by daniel_reetz »

Brilliant tutorial, Rob! And great results.
Post Reply