PVC pipe scanner with 100 degree platen

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Re: PVC pipe scanner with 100 degree platen

Post by jcvancouverdiy »

Doranwen wrote: 29 Jun 2021, 00:34

I spray painted the scanner "flat" (aka non-reflective) black as well - wasn't a perfect job, only realized after it dried that I had missed patches here and there, but oh well! It is at least overall painted black. The paint can said to either apply further within 1 hour or wait 48 hours, and I was not going to wait 48 hours to finish painting it before reassembly. It got enough to cut down on any problematic reflections, I think.

I also unearthed some black fabric in the family's stash that can be used to block out any glare of white from the back wall (should that be a problem) and which will work great to cover it to keep dust out when it's not being used. It still needs hemming, and I'm leaving the scanner alone till tomorrow afternoon so it's had a full day to dry completely before finishing assembling it with cameras again. (We tested some pictures with it this morning and they worked great, but then it was taken apart for the spray painting.) I spray painted it in the 90+-degree weather we had here (insane temps!) so it *might* have been a bit hotter than it should've been for that, but I figured it would dry quickly? (Yeah, we're used to summer starting properly in July; this is really crazy heat! Fortunately it's supposed to drop significantly back to normal comfortable warm temperatures tomorrow, at least in my area.)
Hi Doranwen or others who can tell me about the frame holding the glass,

Can you walk me through step by step on designing the wooden frame to hold the glass platen?

Originally I was going to carbon copy the DLandin model--use two pieces of acrylic butted together, with t-joints screwed to the centre edge. However, browsing the previous thread as well as this one shows me the acrylic and 90deg might create the glare problem. I've decided to go with the glass, but don't feel confident in drilling through it to use the original t-joints without breaking the glass. I am looking to use your set up but can't make out the picture or find documentation in the thread posts.

Hope you can help me. Thanks.
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Re: PVC pipe scanner with 100 degree platen

Post by Doranwen »

I asked my brother to type up a reply, and this is what he said:
Thanks for your interest. Since I don't know how much you already understand about the design I built, I'll try to explain each part.

I realized the same issue with drilling, so I wondered how to create a frame that the T brackets could attach to, and that would hold the glass. After asking around, both online and in person, I was given the recommendation of cedar wood, because of the way it interacts with the glass (it's a better "sleeve" for reasons I may have forgot). At the local hardware store, we found 5/8" by 1 3/4" cedar boards (real measurements, might be called 3/4" by 2" or something). The pictures probably are clear on how the boards were attached to each other, and I cut them at 45 degrees for each joint.

Now as to fitting the glass inside:
We got pieces of glass and had a local glass worker round the edges. I then used a table saw (just barely raised above the level of the table) to cut grooves (about 1/8" wide, or whatever the width of the saw blade is) lengthwise into the 5/8" side of the cedar board (this comes after cutting them into the right pieces for the frame). This created my sleeve for the glass. To get the pieces the right length, I made the inside dimension of each piece shorter than the length or width of the glass, the total difference being a little less than twice the depth of the groove I cut. Finally, for the junction where the two glass pieces "meet", to avoid them rubbing on each other and damaging their transparency, I used miniature scraps of my cedar wood, and glued them into the grooves of the frame on each piece of the V, right where they met at the V, to keep the glass pieces 1/8" or more apart. As for assembly then, we'd put the two pieces of each V together, including the bracket on the end, slide the glass pieces carefully into the slots/grooves, then slide the end pieces (attached to the T brackets) on and connect the frame with brackets over each joint.

Hope that helps.
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